![]() ![]() In the case of the Ford 8.8 or the GM 10- and 12-bolts, you'll need to get what's called C-clip eliminators, which convert the axleshafts to a bolt-in design as used on a factory Ford 9-inch. The Ford 8.8 units are stronger, but they benefit from bolt-on upgrades. In particular, the '82-and-up GM F-body rear axles tend to shatter like glass. After traction is dialed in, you might start breaking axles if you have decent power. Even without all that trickery, you might find that your car launches better at the dragstrip if you unhook your front sway bar. ![]() Those same companies, in addition to Moroso and Eibach, offer drag-oriented coil springs. Unlike the old days of loose 90/10 shocks on the front, now double-adjustable units are available from companies like QA1, Strange, and Chassisworks that will allow good performance on the track and safe handling on the street. The other suspension tricks to consider are drag-style shocks. The '96 to '98 models with the 4.6L V8s are the cheapest to buy but the most difficult to make fast for cheap. The '94 to '95 Mustang 5.0s are orphans that have some quirks that might make them worth avoiding. The '86 to '93 5.0 Mustangs are also a great platform, but they are getting older and might need more work, and they tend to have been whipped hard. The LT1-powered '93 to '97 F-bodies are an incredible value these days, but the bolt-on opportunities for the engines are somewhat limited. They're affordable now, and the LS1 can be made fast without trying hard (see one guy's recipe for 11s with a stock engine in this issue). In the world of newer cars, we'd recommend a '98 to '02 Z28, Formula, or Trans Am as a great start. In that plan, a newer car is compelling because you probably won't have to restore the paint and interior-or fix any rust-before you start racing and adding speed goodies. The easiest way to go fast is not to build a big project from scratch but to buy a running car and start bolting on speed parts. If you still want to hit car shows, those cars are interesting for people to look at. It's cool to run a gasser '50s car, a rodded Model A or '32, or any muscle car. If you want to stand out, or run in the vintage drags, then get something old and different. Problem is, virtually everyone has a drag Mustang. Check out those stories, but first, here are some basics to consider to help build your first drag racing car. If you're considering your first street-and-strip project, this issue of HRM is packed with stuff to think about, from the car features about real guys on real budgets to the tribulations of the participants of our annual Drag Week event. ![]() Even if you spend most of your time at cruises and shows, you'll hold your head higher when you can put an actual number to your car's performance during bench sessions. Besides, muscle car bragging rights are anchored in quarter-mile times. You don't need to be competitive-you can just run at test-and-tune nights to get your personal best times for nothing but fun. Every track has bracket races, and virtually any car can race. There are tracks everywhere, and drag opportunities are offered at many events, such as some Goodguys shows, nostalgia reunions, Holley's LS Fest, True Street competitions within the NMCA and NMRA sanctioning bodies, and even our own Power Tour. If you're ready for action and adventure, you might be thinking about trying a little drag racing. Drag-race times recorded in wet conditions are shown with a (W).Cruise-ins and car shows are just glorified parking lots. Some cars have featured in more than one drag race, so have multiple 1/4-mile times. Click on each car’s link to watch the drag race for yourself. ![]()
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